Selecting a racquet can be a daunting challenge - both when you are looking to switch tennis racquets, as well as when you are selecting your first tennis racquet. With twenty something racquet companies on the market, and each with ten or more offerings, how can you find the racquet that is best for you?
The first step is to understand the basic meat and potatoes of racquet specifications. There are six primary specifications you will need to consider.
1) Head size - Head sizes range from 90-137 square inches. What is important to know is smaller head sizes offer more control and maneuverability but have less power, which will mean you will need to supply it yourself. Generally, smaller headed racquets are superior volleying frames. Larger headed racquets offer a larger sweet spot, and greater power. The larger sweet sport will allow a greater margin of error on your strokes, but are less maneuverable and not great volleying racquets. Most professionals on the tour these days use 100 square inch racquets. This is the new mid plus size. Juniors should target the 100 sq inch head size. For adults, a lot will depend on your age and ability to move. The more mobile a player you are, and the more racquet speed you can generate yourself, the smaller the head size can be. The slower you are, and the less swing speed you can generate yourself, the larger the racquet head should be.
2) Length - the length of a racquet (adult) will range between 27-29 inches. The longer the racquet, the more reach and power the racquet will have. The drawback of a longer racquet is it becomes less maneuverable. The shorter the racquet, the more maneuverable it is. Most professionals play with a 27 inch racquet, though some play with a 27.25 or 27.5 inch frame. Juniors should stay within that same range once they switch to an adult frame. The younger the player the more they should be staying with a 27 inch frame. For adults, the mobility of the player is an important consideration. The less mobile you are, the longer the racquet should be as it will offer you more reach to counteract the lack of mobility.
3) Beam width - The beam width is the measurement across the edge of the frame, if you placed the racquet perpendicular to the ground. Racquet beams range between 19-30mm. The thinner the beam, the less powerful the racquet, and they will see decreasing head sizes. The thicker the beam, the larger the head of the racquet, and the more power the racquet will possess. Thinner beams are used by junior players, professionals, and players 4.5-5.0 and up. The thickest beams are used by older less mobile players who need the racquet to provide power because they lack swing speed.
4) Weight - The weight of the racquet is measured both in ounces and grams. In terms of ounces, racquets range between 8.5-12.5 ounces. Heavier racquets in general will have smaller heads, and thinner beams, and these frames increasingly require the player to be able to produce high swing speeds to get the desired power. Lighter racquets generally have larger heads, and thicker beams, and are designed for players that are less mobile and require the racquet to generate the power. Heavier racquets absorb more shock, and are less likely to give you tennis elbow. Lighter racquet, due to less mass, absorb less shock, and tend to give players tennis elbows. If you doubt my claim, look at all the senior players at your facility - a statistically significant number have light racquets and an elbow support/brace of some sort. Weight is listed for the racquet being unstrung. String adds .5oz to the weight of the frame. Example, Head Speed MP is listed as 10.6oz. This is the unstrung weight. The strung weight is 11.1oz.
5) Balance - The balance of a racquet is measured in points. 1 point = 1/8th of an inch. It is measured from the middle of the racquet. Example, a 27 inch racquet that is "even balanced" has the balance point at 13.5 inches, and is 0pts head light and 0pts head heavy. A head light racquet means most of the weight is found in the handle, with the balance point closer to the handle. A head heavy racquet means most of the weight is found in the head of the racquet, and the balance point is more towards the head. A racquet that is 8pts head light has the balance point at 12.5 inches (8pts = 1inch (8*1/8)) towards the handle. Racquet manufactures give you the balance point of the racquet when it is UNSTRUNG. Strings, as discussed earlier, add .5 oz, and that weight is added to the head. This means that usually the balance point listed should be reduced 2pts (2/8 or 1/4inch). As an example, a racquet that says it is 4 points head light unstrung is 2pts head light strung. Likewise a racquet listed as even balanced, is 2pts head heavy strung. Head light racquets are used by college players, professional players, and juniors should look for racquets that are at least 2pts head light strung (4pts head light unstrung). Head light racquets are more maneuverable, and the head whips through the ball like a catapult, thus enabling more racquet head speed. The more head light the racquet, the smaller the racquet head, the heavier the frame, and the thinner the beam. The more head heavy the racquet, the lighter the frame, the thicker the beam, and the larger the racquet head.
6) String pattern - String patterns are listed on the racquet in the following manner, (A x B), where A is the number of main strings (the longer strings that travel from the tip of the head to the throat), and B is the number of cross strings (the shorter strings that travel perpendicularly to the main strings). A string pattern will affect the amount of spin and control the racquet will offer. String patterns are considered in terms of their denseness. The denseness is determine by the ratio of mains to crosses. When comparing string patterns, be sure to compare racquets of the same exact head size, as a change in head size also affects the denseness of the pattern. As an example, a 16 X 16 string pattern is less dense than a 16 X 20 string pattern. Less dense string patterns will give you more spin as the spaces between strings are larger. However, a less dense pattern will also offer less control, as less string surface area is interacting with the ball. A more dense pattern offers more control and less spin. If you are in the market for more spin and can't change your technique in order to get it, consider a less dense string pattern.
As with any purchasing decision, before you begin looking, make a note of what you want to get out of your frame. Do you want more power? More spin? More control? More reach? Each racquet on the market can answer one or two of your needs. Keep in mind when you go for more in one area, you are sacrificing something in another as compensation.
The key to selecting the racquet that is right for you is demoing a frame. If you are still unsure after reading this blog, simply demo multiple types of frames. When you find one that feels good when you strike the ball, note the specifications listed on the racquet. Then go to any website that sells racquets and look up similar racquets from other companies that have similar specifications. Ignore all the technological mumbo jumbo listed on the racquet. What is important is how the racquet feels when you hit the ball. Select 5 or 6 more racquets of similar specifications and then figure out which one you like the most.
If you like your current racquet but it is no longer made, look up the specifications of your racquet, and find 5 or 6 newer racquets that have similar specifications and demo. Continue demoing frames in that range until you find your new racquet. Do not simply buy the new version of your old racquet - the technology does not matter in terms of the specifications, but it does matter in terms of how the racquet feels. Newer versions of racquets feel completely different, so have an open mind.
With a little understanding and much demoing, selecting the correct racquet for you will be a piece of cake.
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